words by Sara Snow / photos by Dave Snow

An undeniable lightness

Translation by Mychèle Poitras

Café view at Arch & Po

Thea Boyanowsky glances out the second-floor window of what was the customs house and post office on George Street in Annapolis Royal, N.S. Outside, the market square is busy as vendors greet shoppers at the weekly Wednesday artisan market. As Thea recounts the process of renovating this historic building—how she and her husband incorporated the salvaged pine from an old textile building in Yarmouth into the main floor café, or found a unique cabinet from another old post office for the dining room in the second floor apartment, how they named every room (for example, The Poet’s Room tucked in a corner of the third floor) or how her brother restored the beautiful windows throughout—she shares her joy for every detail and for the community she, her husband, and their son now call home.

Thea was born just outside of Halifax, where her father then worked at Dalhousie University. At the age of four, her family relocated to North Vancouver, B.C., but Nova Scotia had made a deep impression on her. Her journey back has been a serendipitous love story.

The story takes a giant leap to Montreal where, as a university student, she met Sam Anson, her downstairs neighbour. “Sam became my boyfriend,” she says with a smile. “And one reading week, he invited me back to Bear River where his mother and stepfather had a farm. We took the train to Saint John and then the ferry to Digby where they picked us up. It was beautiful and snowy, and they took us to this cabin they had just built. We walked across a frozen pond, and it was all so romantic.”

“I fell in love with him, his parents, the province,” she says. After completing degrees in Montreal, they moved to Los Angeles where Sam had spent part of his childhood, but they would visit Bear River and neighbouring Annapolis Royal as much as possible. “It wasn’t until we had a child,” she says, “when we thought maybe we don’t want to live in a big city and maybe we don’t want to live on the west coast anymore.”

The longing for this place coincided with a desire for a career shift. In California, Thea had worked in film, commercial production and public radio but was ready to start something new. “I wanted a brick and mortar business,” she says. “I had had these sort of ephemeral jobs where what you create sort of disappears and I wanted to build something.”  

Her mom had just moved to Annapolis Royal. “We were visiting,” Thea says, “and we walked out on the boardwalk. The sun was beginning to set and the basin it just lights up. It’s like a bowl of light and the way it captures the light. I fell in love with the landscape. Growing up in Vancouver I was used to the mountains blocking out the light. I love the light here.”

Standing on the small second floor balcony, with its views of the basin and surrounding hills, she shares how she and Sam became the owners of this building. When it came up for sale, Thea and Sam were curious. The owner loved the building, had put a new roof on, but had to sell. Thea and Sam considered it and reconsidered it. It would be a big endeavour. “Finally, in 2018, we said to each other we both had a very strong vision of what we wanted to create here,” Thea explains, “so we said ‘let’s just do it’ and our son was four at the time.” Over the next two years they renovated and in June of 2020, they opened the café. “We started selling out of the little half-door at the other entrance when you couldn’t have a sit-down café, but because we were an essential service because we sold bread so we started that way, with an amazing baker who did the bread and pastry.” 

Thea and Sam, with the help of their family, friends and their growing café team, took things slowly and over the next four years, expanded gradually from the half-door window, to the sit-down café in 2021, to drip coffee, and to regular pizza nights. “When we bought the building we weren’t even sure we wanted a bakery,” Thea says. “We knew we wanted food and we had a small child so I knew I didn’t want to be here late at night. We wanted to balance the lifestyle with the work—this was really important to us.” The bakery closes just in time for her son’s school bus. 

Thea with a second floor view and old customs vault to the left

The team behind the counter busily fills orders, chatting with each other and with customers. Back in the kitchen, a baker pulls a tray of bread from the oven and Zeyah, whose two siblings have also worked here, is preparing salads.  “I can’t believe I found such a talented team,” Thea says. There is Kate, the mastermind behind the pizza and savoury pastries; Annie who makes the viennoiseries, not least of which are the croissants, their perfect flakiness enveloping a melt-in-your mouth butteriness; Eden, who grew up here, Keenan, a star barista from Montreal, and Eileen who have all been working with Thea and the café since the beginning.

The space is open yet cozy with seating that ranges from a comfortable sofa to bench seating, large tables to smaller ones. Thea heads to a table of four regulars who have just sat down with their coffees under a large arched window that overlooks market square.  “The beauty queens of Annapolis Royal, I call them”, she says as she introduces the four, whose favourites highlight the breadth on offer here at Arch & Po. For Anna Kate it’s the Breakfast Danish. Hillary is “obsessed with the ginger cookie”. One of Sarah’s favourites is the ginger cookie ice cream sandwich and Jenni chooses the quiche. “It has what to me seems like a little lemon in it,” Jenni says, “and it has changed the way I make frittata at home.” Several of these women work in healthcare in town and the conversation shifts from pastries to healthcare access in the region. “We cherish our doctors,” one of them says.

Thea heads back to the counter to fill a pastry box for a customer. While skillfully prepared, award-winning, baked goods are indeed part of the draw here at Arch & Po, it is as much to enjoy the sense of community or just a quiet moment, trading the weight of the world with the lightness of flaky pastry and good company.

“It was really important to me to open a food business that was welcoming to a lot of people,” Thea says. “We wanted to have something that was inclusive for people from as many walks of life as possible. You can get a cookie, a fancy pastry, or come for pizza tonight.” 🥐

Arch & Po

200 St George St, Annapolis Royal, N.S.

www.facebook.com/archandpo

@archandpo

This piece can be found in Spring 2025, Edible Maritimes #14

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